I have recently started shooting some of my sets on film using a second hand Nikon F90x. I love the way different emulsions can create distinctive looks. So...show me your images taken on Film only. The less post editing the better so we can all judge the differing film types used. I will start with an image taken on my last set using the classic Portra 800 film.
Virtually no editing, I think the film expired in 1999. I had no idea what the image would turn out like.
Shot on 35mm film using an old Canon EOS300 costing less than 99p!
Talented and beautiful Tori out on the balcony.
Canon EOS300 body
Canon 50mm f/1.8 EFS lens
Agfa APX 100
Shot at HLDStudio in London
Developed at MiniLab in Northampton.
Cheating a little. This Kodak High Speed Infra Red film shot in 2002 , the different sensitivity and distinctive grain make it what it is, and it's from my very first nude-model shoot
This is my own film, its a slight variation on Denise Ross's formula AMBr. (the light farm).
This film was made over about 7 hours total with an automated syringe pump adding minute quantities of silver nitrate into a salt solution over 3 hour run, with the aim being that it allows bigger silver grains to form, but to be honest even despite all that effort and eBay sourcing for such a weird buy, that probably increased speed from iso 1 to iso 1.5. To chemically increase film speed which looks like the only way to do it properly, is hit and miss ,Think of it as adding a chemical in that makes it a little unstable but faster if the chemical is completely pure and the exact quantity otherwise FOG!. Ive a feeling 75% of places where I can get the chemicals are not totally pure, so i just get crazy fogged plates all the times ive tried.
Its ultraviolet light sensitive only. It certainly cannot see reds or yellow and in theory cannot see green but I feel it can see a little bit, With the leaves your mainly seeing the UV light reflecting off and the shadow side is significantly darker.
The sky is blown as its about impossible to capture sky with this, and the dress I actually died blue to make it look white on film. I think tattoo ink is quite UV reflective, hence the lighter effect.
There can be a super weird situation with primitive emulations that if the whole subject area is in a shadow with a blue cast, you actually get more detail than any commercially available film as the UV emulsion sees it perfectly. however that's a rare situation. 
Same emulsion again but I think that jumper was white, started to blow out a little. 
Then my fav commercial film, Adox CHS Art 50 (im not sure if what there selling today is the same as it was when I last shot with it) , its a primitive emulsion like mine, only much more advanced and faster! Just gives a lovely vintage look, and this film is orthochromatic, or almost, so it can see into the greens and get a bit of orange but its not like regular b&w film.. this had an orange filter on the sky. Although it was from the days where I liked my shadows and everything dark! I think id want to lighten that up today, but this will always bee a bit of an issue with ortho like films. You'd need a bit of patience in the darkroom or just be aware they don't always like shadows. Ive seen people use it for portraits but you have to be very careful of the shadows, it would probably give similar results to my film. 
Medium format (Mamiya 7) Kodak Tri- X @250 ISO
35 mm Kodak Portra 400 @250 ISO
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https://1.prplcdn.com/i/p/388/38831-a1679514318100.jpg?1679514487
Shot on Fuji 100 Provia slide film, with an RB67 at Shutterhouse Studio. A film FPI as well.
Edited by ThePictureCompany
Edited by ThePictureCompany
