Advice on Lighting

Simondclarke said

Thanks, everyday is a learning day.  Do you think that my lights Godox AD100 & 1V will be strong enough to travel 10m?

You didn't say whether you are using shoot through white umbrellas or reflective silver or white. With your 3 different lights, are you metering them all before you start, because the AD100 and V1 may not be the same output at 1/2 or 1/1 or any other same power output, plus the TT350 is only a guide number of 35ish so if they are all set to 1/1, that may struggle which is why you probably see a lighter side if you used the V1 and TT350 before.

I would imagine you are best off testing before the game or event, but the stuff you have already done is good, how are you editing.

Another thing, you might put a casting out to see if a photographer is willing to help with your lighting setup so you can direct the team, they are a friendly bunch on here :-)

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I would clear the tables, use the white wall on the right as a background. Bounce the flash off white bits of the wall on the left. No umbrellas, etc.

Huw said

I would clear the tables, use the white wall on the right as a background. Bounce the flash off white bits of the wall on the left. No umbrellas, etc.

+1 (and more)

Aim the lights about 7-8 feet up on the wall opposite the one you're using as a background, and don't even try a hair/rim-light for the group set. You're not going to get great shaping no matter what you do with 2-3 low-powered lights and a very short setup time, but that approach will give you evenly lit, unobjectionable lighting. You might need to raise the ISO in the camera, but a quick check will let you see that, and takes seconds to fix.

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How you do it is simple, you light individually and comp. If you have an assistant, great! Just have the team line up (or if you can, do them separately against a plain backdrop with plenty of throw distance, while the camera is locked off on a tripod, preferably. Then you can comp them together. If you don't fancy this, you can have them lined up and just move the light between photos. The benefit of doing the whole team instead of singles is that you don't have to remember to keep moving the light for shadow placement, which will come naturally. This was you're getting perfect lighting on each member with only one light. 

Kirk Schwarz said

How you do it is simple, you light individually and comp. If you have an assistant, great! Just have the team line up (or if you can, do them separately against a plain backdrop with plenty of throw distance, while the camera is locked off on a tripod, preferably. Then you can comp them together. If you don't fancy this, you can have them lined up and just move the light between photos. The benefit of doing the whole team instead of singles is that you don't have to remember to keep moving the light for shadow placement, which will come naturally. This was you're getting perfect lighting on each member with only one light. 

I think this is probably the most sensible approach if you haven't got the Ws to do it all in one shot.

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Simondclarke Well, it's your bat and your ball to play any way you wish. But for the money you're contemplating paying for another battery powered unit, you could look on eBay or similar and buy yourself a complete set of 2 x mains energised flash-heads c/w stands, with enough grunt to do the job properly, in one easy hit. They'd also have enough energy to use the brollies as reflectors (much softer and more even spray of light). No need for the third light. If you lived closer, I'd even lend you a set of mine to try.

As an aside, just to clear up any confusion and ensure we are all singing from the same proverbial hymn-sheet:

• 1 Ws (watt-second) = 1 Joule.

The SI unit for energy is the Joule. The term "Ws" is confusing because many people wrongly assume that "Ws" means watts. I'm guessing "Ws" was coined predominantly for the US market, where it seems a lot of folks are still a tad confused by the metric system. :-)

Edited by waist.it

waist.it said

Simondclarke Well, it's your bat and your ball to play any way you wish. But for the money you're contemplating paying for another battery powered unit, you could look on eBay or similar and buy yourself a complete set of 2 x mains energised flash-heads c/w stands, with enough grunt to do the job properly, in one easy hit. They'd also have enough energy to use the brollies as reflectors (much softer and more even spray of light). No need for the third light. If you lived closer, I'd even lend you a set of mine to try.

As an aside, just to clear up any confusion and ensure we are all singing from the same proverbial hymn-sheet:

• 1 Ws (watt-second) = 1 Joule.

The SI unit for energy is the Joule. The term "Ws" is confusing because many people wrongly assume that "Ws" means watts. I'm guessing "Ws" was coined predominantly for the US market, where it seems a lot of folks are still a tad confused by the metric system. :-)

Edited by waist.it

I'm on dangerous ground here because my education and memory is failing me. But 1 Watt is 1 Joule Second, 1 Watt Hour is 3600 Joules. If you have a 10w light bulb, that bulb is putting out 10 joules every seconds

The Ghost said

Simondclarke said

Thanks, everyday is a learning day.  Do you think that my lights Godox AD100 & 1V will be strong enough to travel 10m?

https://strobist.blogspot.com/2018/01/slc-2l-02-two-speedlight-daylight-group.html

There is virtually no chance your interior lighting is anywhere close to that exposure.

Edited by The Ghost

If you haven't already done so, have a good read of the strobist website.

I spent a day with him many years ago - one of the best teachers I've met.