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Exposure changes

 

Hello Fellow Purpleport Members,

In previous posts, I have asked for feedback on my portfolio. I am very grateful to those of you who made some useful suggestions.

In particular, the subject of exposure was mentioned by several of you. My images have been described as under-exposed.

Well, next month (April 2013) I have a studio shoot booked with two models. My main camera is a Nikon D7000.

In comparison to my last shoot (where I shot hand-held with ISO 100 and a shutter speed of 1/100 sec) I plan to make some changes.

I will use a tripod and try a higher ISO (200 to 400) and a shutter speed of say 1/10 sec or even 1/5 sec.

Does anyone have any further suggestions as to how I can resolve this underexposing issue please ?

I would be very grateful for any constructive suggestions please ?

NB No insults or offensive comments thank you.

Many thanks

freedriv082000

otteypm said, 1363526533

Add more light.........

rickspix said, 1363527014

I use a d7000 too and in a studio never had a need to increase the iso above 100, usually with studio strobe's you can get sufficient light from them to allow you to use 100 iso and anywhere from f5.6 to f11 which will be good to give you perfect exposure.   Ideally do a few test shots while the model is getting ready and try to get the histogram to be almost the whole way across the scale !

Steves pics said, 1363527870

Its dependant on some many individual variables, its impossible to give you any defintive answer. For example, When I use my studio, I have a three light set up. Each light has several individual settings. I can move each light independantly closer to or further away from the subject. I can then use different reflectors to make each light work differently - snoot, barn door, beauty dish etc etc. On camera I can adjust the ISO, the aperture and the shutter speed.

i always set my ISO to 100 in a studio. My ball park camera setting is 1/125 at f8. A tripod is unecessary at this sort of shutter speed, it doesnt affect exposure, it merely allows you to use a slower shutter speed without causing shake. The best advice is go to a studio that has a technician there to advise you and to set up the lighting for you. He will be able to give you ball park settings and you can take it from there. Good luck!

profilepictures said, 1363528218

Not sure 1/10 and 1/5 are a great idea, even on a tripod you might get movement from your model, even on a 50mm I'll try and stay about 1/60 or above if it's possible to give everyone a chance, you'll need to go higher still if you're using a longer lens (rough guide is match focal length to shutter speed like 1/70 for 70mm and 1/200 for 200mm, give or take) keep it simple if you can.

Spike said, 1363528755

There are a range of things that could be causing your exposure problems. Probably your quickest & cheapest solution is to get some training. Considering your location look at http://fasteddie.moonfruit.com/#/workshops/4537134502

TonyT said, 1363528943

Working in a studio (to keep it simple) set your D7000 to ISO100, shutter 250, then use the light meter set at the same values to determine your aperture, set the aperture the light meter shows on the camera. Adjust the lights power up or down, or move the lights nearer or further away, to give smaller or larger aperture.

Note point the light meter from the subjects face towards the camera to take your reading.

rickspix said, 1363530387

Personally I would suggest a shutter speed of around 160, I had problems in one studio as the trigger wasnt firing quick enough, so I wouldnt recomend as fast as 250. I know it should be ok but for someone new you want to get rid of as many possible causes of error as you can. 

Tarmoo said, 1363533500

If you are shooting in a studio, then set your camera to Manual mode, shutter speed to 1/200 and ISO to 100. If your camera can synch to 1/250 you can accidentally move the speed round notch without problems. If you find you are getting black lines across the bottom of each image (in landscape orientation) then you may have set your speed too fast, e,g. 1/320 sec. I have done this a few times by mistake. See http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C23lQ_-NuVQ for an explanation.

Studio flash is usually somewhere between 1/500 and 1/3000 sec, so the much slower shutter speed of 1/160 to 1/200 or 1/250 makes no difference. You will probably be using a light meter in the studio similar to the Sekonic L308S. If you click the link there is a video showing you how it works.

Edited by Tarmoo

Paul Cox said, 1363536006

To a large extent shutter speed is irrelevant in a true studio situation (where the only light source is flash).  As suggested above add more light to your images, something that there should be no shortage of in a studio.  I'd suggest a lighting course or plenty of reading to understand where to place the lights for the effect you want and ensure the histogram shows plenty of information in the mid tones and highlights if possible.

Mark Perry said, 1363537969

I normaly use f8, ISO 100 @ 125/s in a studio.

It sounds as though you need to learn exposure values and how they work, and you should always shoot at the lowest ISO you can.

You have not said if your going to be using flash or constant lighting. If you are using flash you will need to meter the light with a light meter, or learn how to use the histogram on the camera.

@vishpateluk said, 1363539604

freedriv082000 said

I would be very grateful for any constructive suggestions please ?

This isn't rocket science by why don't you cancel your shoot and buy some books on lighting or go to a studio workshop? It just seems based upon your portfolio that you'll happily invest time and money on models/studios but not on developing your understanding on how lighting works. 

mph said, 1363543617

freedriv082000 said

In comparison to my last shoot (where I shot hand-held with ISO 100 and a shutter speed of 1/100 sec) I plan to make some changes.

I will use a tripod and try a higher ISO (200 to 400) and a shutter speed of say 1/10 sec or even 1/5 sec.

Does anyone have any further suggestions as to how I can resolve this underexposing issue please ?

 

 


Base the exposure on the light rather than choosing a random collection of settings for no logical reason?

Simone Orsini said, 1363545610

If you don't know why you would choose f2 rather than f16 you need to get some training..

It always amazes me that people will not spend money on training.. Book yourself a workshop day...

JRD said, 1363545881

Vish Patel said

freedriv082000 said

I would be very grateful for any constructive suggestions please ?

This isn't rocket science by why don't you cancel your shoot and buy some books on lighting or go to a studio workshop? It just seems based upon your portfolio that you'll happily invest time and money on models/studios but not on developing your understanding on how lighting works. 



SimonFairclough said

If you don't know why you would choose f2 rather than f16 you need to get some training..

It always amazes me that people will not spend money on training.. Book yourself a workshop day...


Both these ^^ ... learn apertures and what they actually do ... and there connection with shutter speed, I'm a noob but once i learnt the principle of these it opens a new world of photography, my mission now is to master it ... but that will take a while ;)

RunagateRepublic said, 1363545942

Mommy used to always say 'If you can't say anything nice, don't say anything at all'. 

Daddy never used to speak to Mommy.

Go figure. Life is cruel and people can be equally unhelpful but unkind words really have no power other than the power you give them. I'm with others; don't fear people's words. Certainly don't try to censor what people can say to you. It's how we all grow and change.